SEEDING YOUR LAWN

Lawn grasses are usually established in our area by either seeding or sodding. Sodding is expensive but offers an instant carpet of grass that can be used within weeks, can be installed in difficult places such as areas that are steep or heavily trafficked and can be installed almost any time during the growing season. Seed is the most economical and common way to start a lawn. Overseeding provides a quick, easy way to thicken and rejuvenate grassy areas.

When should I seed grass?
In nature, grass seed ripens and falls to the ground in late summer and germinates as the nights get cooler and the soil is still warm. In our area, the best time for seeding grass is between August 20 and September 20. The second best opportunity for successful establishment of grass seed is late April through May. Grass can be seeded during the summer, but it requires more careful watering

What kind of grass seed should I use?
Choosing the right variety of grass for your lawn is very important. The first factor to consider is how much sun the area receives. Creeping red fescue is the most tolerant of shade. It's a good idea to use a grass seed mixture that blends the attributes of several varieties of grass. Occasionally turf grasses are subject to diseases that target a specific variety of grass and growing a mixed lawn may help limit the damage.

How should I prepare the soil?
Keep in mind that you will be expecting the grass to grow in that soil for years, so now is you chance to make it the best possible. How much work the soil will require depends on its current condition. If you have a good, rich soil with lots of organic matter, simply loosen the top two or three inches, even out the grade and rake to smooth the surface and remove clods. Very loose soil might need to be rolled to make it more firm. If your soil is heavy sand or clay, you may need to add top soil, compost, peat moss or manure, spreading a layer several inches thick on top of the existing soil. Till the soil amendments into the top six inches of existing soil. To seed over an existing stand of grass, you need to loosen the surface of the soil as much as you can without damaging the existing grass. This can be done with a steel tine rake or a dethatching attachment to your mower. You may get a stand of grass if you simply spread the seed over bare ground, but it will have to struggle to get an adequate root system and will be thinner and less resistant to disease and winter damage.

Should I fertilize the soil?
Your new grass will be stronger and greener if you spread a Starter Fertilizer just before or after seeding. When using Bachman's lawn products, you will notice our Starter Fertilizer is the only product we have with phosphorus. In our area, phosphorus is only needed when starting new grass. Organic products make a good starter fertilizer too.

How much seed do I need?
How much seed you will need depends of what variety of grass you are using and if it is a new seeding or overseeding. Bluegrass can have up to 10 times as many seeds per pound as other grasses.

The following chart shows how many square feet you can cover with a pound of seed:
 
New Lawns
Bluegrass
500-600 sq. ft

Other Grass
300-350 sq. ft.

Over-seeding
Bluegrass
1000-1200 sq. ft.

Other Grass
600-700 sq. ft.

What is the best way to spread the seed?
For small areas, spread the seed by hand. For larger areas, use either a hand held seeder or a fertilizer spreader. Keep in mind it is much easier to go back over an area if you spread it too thin than it is to take it back. After you broadcast the seed, it needs to be raked lightly into the surface. In order to germinate, grass seed needs light and contact with the soil, so be careful not to get it too deep. Power (or slit) seeders are available at some places that rent equipment. Germination will be better if you roll the seed after you rake lightly.

Should I spread a mulch over the seeded area?
Existing grass will act as a mulch or nurse crop for over-seeded areas. On newly seeded areas, spreading mulch will make your job much easier. Straw is the least expensive way to cover a large area. An average bale of straw will mulch approximately 1000 square feet. The disadvantage of straw is that it's slow to break down and often has a lot of weed seeds. Peat moss is available baled and can be spread lightly over an area to be seeded to help retain moisture. Burlap will help hold a steep grade, but is difficult to remove without damaging the grass. A new product that is helpful in smaller areas is called a Germinator, an extremely lightweight fabric that floats on top of the emerging grass and lets the rain and 50% of the light pass through. It can be easily removed after the grass has been in a few weeks and can be reused.

How do I care for the newly seeded area?
Right after seeding, soak the ground thoroughly. The top inch of soil needs to stay consistently damp. This might require your sprinkling the soil lightly several times a day to keep it moist, especially if it's warm or windy. Continue to water regularly until the grass is several inches tall, then begin to water less often but more deeply.

How long does it take the seed to germinate?
You may see a soft green flush within a few days of seeding, but the majority of the grass will germinate in a week to 10 days.

What about the packages that come with seed and mulch?
For small areas, these products are great. They are mixtures of mulch, grass seed and starter fertilizer. It is still important to rough up the surface, then spread the mixture and keep it moist.

Grass Seed Varieties

Bachman's Bulk
Perennial Rye
Bluegrass
Creeping Red Fescue
Shady Mix
Sunny Mix
Landscape Mix
Northrup King
All Blue Blend
Prevail
Fast and Fine
Shady Place
Northland
Salt Survivor

Miscellaneous Grass Seed Products

Amturf Sunny Lawn Patch
Amturf Shady Lawn Patch
Amturf Dog Patch Spot Repair
NK Easy Lawn Repair Shady Place
NK Easy Lawn Repair Fast and Fine

Fertilizers

Bachman's Starter Fertilizer 18-22-6
Seed and Sod Starter
Syncronicity Organic 5-2-4
Ringer's Restore

Recommended Products for Lawn Seeding

Germinator, Burlap, Straw and Baled Peat
Scotts Drop and Rotary Spreaders
Handheld Spreaders

© Bachman's 2004
Author: Margaret Purcell, Senior Horticulturist